So now we wait...

Hello everybody

So the application for a first licence / registration certificate has been sent off... just over 2 weeks ago now!!! Given the weather at the moment (which if you're not in the UK, is glorious sunshine and warm, sunny all day every day) it's incredibly frustrating to just sit there and look at it!!!

In the meantime I decided to have a look at the few post-IVA mods I wanted to do. Largely driven by the ignition barrel failing spectacularly and the key getting jammed in the lock. I'd left it in permanently whilst I was going through IVA because it started to get a bit stiff - lucky I did because it failed completely on the way back from the re-test. When I tried to remove the key I just heard a "crunch" and a "snap". So the first job was to get the wretched thing out.

There's a neat trick with a bobby pin that allows you to get the ignition barrel out in about 10seconds (if you have the key); Steve from Tullinge has literally just done the same -  but alas, that just wasn't working for me, something was pretty badly broken in there. Therefore, the only option was to drill, hammer and chisel it out. Made a right mess, which will have to be covered up at a later stage.

no pic because it took forever and left me hot, bothered, and looks a complete mess! I also removed the steering lock in the process, as once the ignition barrel is deleted, you have to be careful the lock doesn't engage accidentally whilst driving. I'm not going to post that here because it's alarmingly simple to defeat one of the OEM security features - but there are a scary number of youtube videos which tell you how to do it!!

I wanted to fit a kill switch as a matter of urgency - these things have saved my skin on a number of occasions over the years - Once stopped some car thieves dead in their tracks (because there was no power) and allowed me to save a Land Rover that developed an electrical fault and was half on-fire! So I set about getting all the bits:

 I re-used the original battery cable from the E36 (there's tons of the stuff, the battery was in the boot) and went to a local battery place who crimped on some ends. I also bought a "MEGA FUSE" (awesome name) as I didn't like the idea of battery cable with unlimited amps crossing back and forth through bulkheads without any protection. Now it will blow at 225A.


Stuff from the battery shop - crimped cables, isolator switch and mega fuse

I also sourced a switch with a "top-gun" style missile flick cover - you'll see that in a minute. I already had the Engine Start switch on the scuttle switch panel; but not wired in.

So that's all the bits, next I had to work out how to wire it all in.

I wanted the kill switch to provide +12V power, the ignition to be switched on the "missile" switch, and the engine to start on the button. I'd also need to include the AM antenna from the original key housing, and have the key present to authorise the EWS each time you start the car.

With the ignition switch dismantled, and looking at the wiring diagram I figured it out:
 

Red is +12V live, green and violet go together and they operate the iginition and the car accessories, the yellow and black sends a signal to the EWS module and then onto the starter motor. Other 2 wires are redundant and related to ignition position 1 (not used, e.g. for radio etc.)


So having figured that out, it was time to design and make something. First, mocked   in card:



 

 

 

Looking something like it. Next, get the manly 12" grinder out and go nuts:


 

After much metal bashing later, transferred my card design into steel:

 

And tested all the components for fit (which they did).

 I used steel for two reasons, basically it was what I happened to have in the workshop; plus I thought I might have to weld a few features on to attach it to the  car. As it happens I could have used ally because I riv-nutted them and they worked fine. A bit annoying in the end because it's actually quite a lumpy weight, but not to worry. Can always change it later.

At the same time as this process I decided to lengthen the wiring to the switches - the loom is a bit short and at the moment you have to connect 21 delicate wires to the dash switches with the scuttle virtually fully installed - it's akin to painting your hall stairs and landing via your letterbox... time consuming and fiddly. So I took it all apart again

Annoyingly, at the same time I managed to short out the indicator flasher unit (which was very annoying because it's a gucci electronic LED version and fairly 0xpensive for what it is) and the LED on the switch for the headlight. Expensive (£40) mistake all for the want of unplugging the battery. (another reason why kill switches are brilliant!)

Taking shape - the blue wires are the switch extension leads








So next, spray painting the console. Now, I haven't actually picked up my spray gun for just over a year, so what follows next is perhaps not surprising. I left on the Sunday evening with the 4th and final coat of orange (8 in total including the primer) and everything was looking hunky dory. But on Monday evening I arrived to this: 

err... oops?

Not great! Suffice to say there was a bit of a rookie mistake. After much soul searching I realised that what I'd done is mix the wrong activator for the primer - using a polyurethane activator on an epoxy base. D'oh! Only answer was to rub back to bare metal and start again:





First 3 coats of primer, with the CORRECT activator this time

Much Better this time! After 4 coats of orange gloss

24hrs later, all dried and edge trim installed

What you can't see is all the wires (particularly the high-power ones) are wrapped and double wrapped in industrial-grade anti-chafing insulation, and lots of thick rubber is stuck to all the pinch and chafe points. Whislt the fuse is there to stop any major disasters, I'd rather not have one in the first place!

And finally, the finished product:

With the keys in and switched on and working - note the green LED next to the ignition switch









So all done - very happy with the result. No dodgy ignition barrel to go wrong, increased security (removable steering wheel AND 2 keys required to start) and the safety of being able to cut power if required. Plus the little ceremony of button presses and key turns required for each engine start also makes me smile. 

One of the other finishing touches was the stick-on rubberised foam for extra "comfort". They certainly look the part and do make the seats marginally more comfortable; but they rob me of valuable leg room; so we'll have to see how I get on with them.

 

So there you have it... keep checking the doormat and hoping!!!