Greetings
fellow blog fans. Update on the GKD Legend Six project, for all those
still with me! Fairly big one as well, so get a cuppa and settle down... This covers a weekend and a few evenings spent over the
last week. Time to prep and clean that engine and get it ready for
re-unification with
it's chum, the gearbox.
Started by removing the exhaust manifolds / lambda
sensors. Sometimes it was the nut that undid, sometimes the stud, but
mercifully they all came without snapping. I'll use a stud extractor to
get the remaining studs out and get some nice
new fasteners when the new manifold is ready to go on.
Next was to clean the remaining side of the engine, same technique - wire brush, and then engine degreaser followed by a rinse.
Came up really well, quite chuffed with that. I
decided to leave the block self coloured, as to do a decent job of
painting it I'd pretty much have to strip the whole engine back to
nothing, and the extra time and cost would harm the overall
project budget on both. My goal is to get the car operational, and then
if the engine needs any serious amount of work in the future, to whip it
out and rebuild it then; so for the time being that's more than
adequate.
I then set my focus to a few little "niggly" tasks that would be 10x easier with the engine out:
First off - the crank position sensor had a head
socket cap screw, wound in at a jaunty angle caught precariously on a
few threads. Bodge from a day gone by methinks, and access would be
difficult from the top of the BMW engine compartment.
Thankfully, that did mean that a new CPS had been fitted at some point
as these are a common fault on the M52 engine and cause weird running
problems without necessarily chucking up the right fault code. Remedial
action: re-tap hole and provide a decent M8
fastening:
Shiny bolt head replaces rusted and cross threaded predecessor. Fixes that costs pennies - I love them. |
Then, removed the waterpump using the M6 "jacking"
screws (thanks Donnie) to have a look-see. Another result, fairly recent (if not brand new) water pump with a metal impeller. Dressed up the tiny
bit of corrosion on the impeller and reinstalled;
first checking the inside of the block housing for scoring or pitting…
neither of which was found.
Staining on the block suggests behind CPS sprocket suggests previous water pump begun leaking through the tell-tale and was replaced.
|
I then drilled and re-tapped one of the M12 torx
bolts that snapped off inside the bellhousing when undoing.
( Steel-Aluminium dissimilar corrosion made darn sure that even with a
blowtorch, it wasn't letting go) Unfortunately because of the
broken off part of the bolt being uneven, I couldn't convince the drill
(and thus the tap) to go in square. Hence, ended up with a very
unpleasantly ski-wiff thread in the block. I resigned to leave it, and
that another solution would leap out at me if it was
a problem. (Heli-coil / nut and bolt etc.) But it was getting to that
time where a pleasure turns into a chore - danger zone! Time to bail
out!
After a break of a few days, came back to it,
enthused with the purchase of parts - a clutch and release bearing; and
decided to begin the fairly exciting task of re-integrating the engine
and 'box. First off, install new clutch plate. Hastily
realise that I don't have the correct alignment tool, but then decide
that I can fashion my own
I then begun the process of trying to mate the pair
together. Now, it's been a while since I've tackled a clutch, but I
reckon it's probably easier to dock a space shuttle into the
international space station. Even with the
clutch manufacturer's handy sachet of "spline lube" it wasn't exactly a
walk in the park.
What didn't help was the green strop was just
slightly the wrong length, so the engine was being presented at a slight
angle, and despite attempts with wooden wedges to get the gearbox in
the same orientation it wasn't very happy. After
several failed attempts I drew stumps and went back to the drawing
board. Despite my superb attempts to fashion an alignment tool without a
lathe, I arrived at the conclusion that if it was even slightly out, it
would stop the input shaft of the gearbox mating
nicely with the nose of the crank. So I admitted defeat and borrowed a
pukka alignment tool. Thus, on the 4th attempt I managed to achieve
success, although it wasn't quite as smooth I'd anticipated / hoped...
The erstewhile wonky thread seemed to go in,
although neither it nor myself felt particularly happy about it. That
said, it's in now and torqued up, and hopefully it'll never have to come
apart again.
So that was it - mission accomplished. I put the
gearbox into gear and turning the crank with a spanner turns the output
shaft of the gearbox, and when it's in neutral it doesn't turn? Does
that mean success? err, not quite...
Myself, or the friendly neighbour mechanic couldn't remember whether we'd put the clutch in the pressure plate the right way around. It's labelled "gearbox side" on the right way, and clearly it won't work if it's wrong way around. After much soul searching I decided the only way to know for sure, and not risk damaging everything or causing tons of work later down the line, was to pull it all apart again and check. Woe is me!!
I did, and thankfully this picture shows you what was peeking back out at me:
Myself, or the friendly neighbour mechanic couldn't remember whether we'd put the clutch in the pressure plate the right way around. It's labelled "gearbox side" on the right way, and clearly it won't work if it's wrong way around. After much soul searching I decided the only way to know for sure, and not risk damaging everything or causing tons of work later down the line, was to pull it all apart again and check. Woe is me!!
I did, and thankfully this picture shows you what was peeking back out at me:
Hurrah. Correct result |
And as a result of the proper alignment tool having been used, and the fact nothing had changed; the gearbox was coaxed back into place a darn sight easier this time. I found the key to success was getting the mounting bolts in a few threads and using them to pull it home, taking care to do them all evenly so as not to pull it uneven. So there you have it, Engine and box reunited.
Project adjourned, for another weekend anyway.
Next, the use of bold font to announce a major milestone...
I then set about installing the engine into the chassis :-) .
Worthy of small celebration. (very small, almost minute actually) |
Next, the use of bold font to announce a major milestone...
I then set about installing the engine into the chassis :-) .
First job was to reinstall the newly painted engine mounts, brackets and mounts etc. did that on the floor. Then fiddled about with the engine crane and Manoeuvred the powertrain into position (several times, up and down, back and forth) and then gently shoe-horned the unit into the chassis. I'll let the photos do the talking here!!
Once I'd coaxed it into the Land Rover S2 V8 engine mounts and I'd put a G-clamp on the gearbox mount, I could take the crane away and stand back, fairly chuffed with myself! It was sat in the frame without any cranes or jacks propping it up!
I used the engine crane to get it so far, and then used a fairly large floor jack to swing up the gearbox on top of the chassis mount. After a bit (not much actually) of shuffling and persuading, it all settled in nicely. This is where a well-made jig-assembled chassis really comes into its own - the tolerances were spot on, and everything lined up brilliantly. (Nice one GKD!)
It wasn't too difficult either - the main problem I had was that it was a bare chassis so didn't weigh much. When I was jacking or hoisting the engine, it would quite often take the whole thing with it. Shouldn't be much of a problem for you other GKD projecteers - if you're doing the job in the correct order you should have added suspension and things to weigh down the chassis by now!!
I did scuff a few things on the chassis / gearbox and will have to touch them in with a bit of black paint - don't want them going rusty when covered up with panels.
At this point I had a good check to see whether it would have to come out again - it may well do, I'm quite comfortable with that; but everything seemed quite accessible - I can get to all the cable ties on the bases OK (I pre-installed the ties to make it easier), pedal box should be just about achievable, only tricky one I can see is the clutch pipe that goes over the gearbox under where the scuttle mounts - tricky, but not impossible. But, time will tell on that one.
So that's it for the meantime, hope you've enjoyed reading and thanks for all your comments I enjoy other people offering comments and suggestions based on their own experience.
Really in order to progress I need to buy the suspension and uprights now - then it will become a rolling chassis - anyone know any understanding Bank Managers? :-)
Vaseline on standby |
Once I'd coaxed it into the Land Rover S2 V8 engine mounts and I'd put a G-clamp on the gearbox mount, I could take the crane away and stand back, fairly chuffed with myself! It was sat in the frame without any cranes or jacks propping it up!
I used the engine crane to get it so far, and then used a fairly large floor jack to swing up the gearbox on top of the chassis mount. After a bit (not much actually) of shuffling and persuading, it all settled in nicely. This is where a well-made jig-assembled chassis really comes into its own - the tolerances were spot on, and everything lined up brilliantly. (Nice one GKD!)
It wasn't too difficult either - the main problem I had was that it was a bare chassis so didn't weigh much. When I was jacking or hoisting the engine, it would quite often take the whole thing with it. Shouldn't be much of a problem for you other GKD projecteers - if you're doing the job in the correct order you should have added suspension and things to weigh down the chassis by now!!
I did scuff a few things on the chassis / gearbox and will have to touch them in with a bit of black paint - don't want them going rusty when covered up with panels.
At this point I had a good check to see whether it would have to come out again - it may well do, I'm quite comfortable with that; but everything seemed quite accessible - I can get to all the cable ties on the bases OK (I pre-installed the ties to make it easier), pedal box should be just about achievable, only tricky one I can see is the clutch pipe that goes over the gearbox under where the scuttle mounts - tricky, but not impossible. But, time will tell on that one.
So that's it for the meantime, hope you've enjoyed reading and thanks for all your comments I enjoy other people offering comments and suggestions based on their own experience.
Really in order to progress I need to buy the suspension and uprights now - then it will become a rolling chassis - anyone know any understanding Bank Managers? :-)
Cheers,
Steve
Steve